This blog is dedicated to my running buddy, Jim, a former chef and food junkie, who's been very curious about hole-in-the wall food joints in Delhi. "Sohn Lal ki Puris," now known as "Bille di Hutti," is one of the oldest in the lot. Located in what's known as Old Delhi, this no-frills brunch spot has been around since 1952--right after the India/Pakistan partition. It began with Raja Ram, and then was taken over by his son Sohn Lal, and then by Sohn Lal's son Bille, and now by Bille's two sons...that's four generations! What's more, my nani knew Raja Ram way back before the partition when they all lived in Lahore, Pakistan. If you look carefully at the photo above, you'll see the sign says "Of Laho-" The "R" and "E" are missing.
One of my favorite childhood memories is visiting Nani's home in Old Delhi (she lived there for over 40 years), and waiting excitedly for my uncle to bring back freshly made puris (fried fluffy bread) and channas (a spicy chickpea curry) from Sohn Lal's. For desert we'd have halva, a semolina pudding flavored with saffron, raisins, and cashew nuts. I remember everything would be piping hot and carefully tucked away in paperbags made from old Hindi newspapers.
Though I've grown up on Sohn Lal's unbelievably delicious food, this was my first time eating at the joint itself. It was jam-packed and men holding steal trays crammed with food floated around as people shouted out how many puris or plates of channas they wanted. This place is not for the feint of heart. You almost have to take a leap of faith that your stomach will survive the unhygienic kitchen from which the heavenly food emerges (see photo above). Still, I'd suffer through two--no make that three-- bouts of the infamous "Delhi Belly," just for a taste of Sohn Lal ki Puris.
2 comments:
Oh, Piya this sounds like my kind of place! Your description of it reminds me of this dumpling place I like. The kitchen and the two tables that make up the dining are, how shall I say? Less than sanitary. But they make a darned good dumpling.
Jim
Jim-- you like Cinema Paradiso??? That's my favorite movie!! Hey, is that a recent photo...did you shave your beard? why??
ps: where's the dumpling place? and how's the running? you know what, i'm going to email you before this post gets tooooo looooong. pk
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